Hi from Corona central (UK) Looking for advice ;)

Hi there, Needed to join & find advice about an issue & i found the "Clang" writeup on theflyingbanana.com that gave a shortcut to here.

However that no longer worked so i have had to take the direct route!

So before i dive in, i thought i'd best apologise first as i do not own a Katana. I have the following:

1978 Yoshimura Bigbored GS1098
1984 GSX1100EF
1986 GSXR1100F with 1127F Engined Drag Bike
79-81 Enough parts to make 3 GT250X7's

Anyhoo, the shortcut was to take me to somewhere on here that showed how to modify the ATU Bob weight to avoid the kickback damage.

I have 2 ATU's & have modded one but just need to see the writeup to make sure i'm not about to make a bad thing worse?

Many thanks for any help you can supply ;-)
 

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Welcome rick, I'm sure the boys will make you feel comfortable and get you the advice you need. Pretty sure there was talk of shaving down the counter weights.
 
I've done this mod to my GS - it involves a bit of Dremel-ing of the bob weight stops to allow the ATU to rest (start?) in a more retarded state, i.e. you're resetting the advance curve to start at a lower advance point on startup which prevents kickback to the starter clutch and eliminates the 'clang' (and further damage).

I think.
Suffice to say, my GS hasn't 'clanged' since I've done this and my starter clutch is still in great shape.

I'm sure there's a write up elsewhere, I'll see if I can track it down.
 
I've done this mod to my GS - it involves a bit of Dremel-ing of the bob weight stops to allow the ATU to rest (start?) in a more retarded state, i.e. you're resetting the advance curve to start at a lower advance point on startup which prevents kickback to the starter clutch and eliminates the 'clang' (and further damage).

I think.
Suffice to say, my GS hasn't 'clanged' since I've done this and my starter clutch is still in great shape.

I'm sure there's a write up elsewhere, I'll see if I can track it down.

Excellent thanks, i may have done it right already.
The one on left has the "lip" shaved down & one on right untouched.
This runs a Dyna S so the tiny gap tha appears to be on the LH one will be taken up by the Dyna rotor.
Does this look correct?
 

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