Flywheel won't budge

  • Thread starter Thread starter Batskat
  • Start date Start date
B

Batskat

Guest
tried the 30 by 1.5 puller snapped now tring this and still won't move, I might have try and cut it off if I can find another flywheel has anyone got one
 

Attachments

  • image.jpg
    image.jpg
    91.8 KB · Views: 40
  • image.jpg
    image.jpg
    95.9 KB · Views: 42
Hi Batskat
Hear'ed stories back in the day on 1100's being key-way'ed as they were napping bolts. Don't know how true this was, but does yours have a key-way on the shaft? As square keys can get distorted.

Old bushes trick was to do a round threaded bolt jetway as allowed you to un-screw the Otway.
Other than that, by the pics would only suggest lot & lots of WD40 as had no issue with my 750.

Q: why are you pulling it, and do you have pics without the puller / adaptor in olace
 
The starter clutch blu to bits and sits behind the fly wheel I hane purchased a another starter and starter clutch
 
Not sure if it's applicable in this case as I've never done this job, and it might be a bit obvious so apologies if it's telling you suck eggs but have you tapped the centre bolt with a hammer once it's loaded?
 
So what snapped? your fly wheel? I dont see the magnets...
You wont ever get it off with out damage unless you pull on the centre hub..

Try some heat on the centre, some people who have no idea about how tapers lock put loctite on the the taper.
you dont need to make it red just enough to soften the glue.


Cheers John
 
Not really sure that a jaw-style puller is the best option for these flywheels. The removal tool applies the pressure directly on the taper joint rather than the extremities of the flywheel

51XQuU1QKdL._SL1200_.jpg

Edit: looking at the picture I can't see a flywheel. It looks like it's been cut off the starter clutch
 
Might be best to show us a pic without the puller in it, it seems a bit odd without the magnets/flywheel in it.

The 1100's have a different way of removing the magnets/flywheel to the 750 motors.
 
I would say the starter clutch bolts have broke and it has separated from the flywheel and the starter clutch has spun on the crank till it welded its self to the crank cut carefully Cheers Murf.
 
Not sure if it's applicable in this case as I've never done this job, and it might be a bit obvious so apologies if it's telling you suck eggs but have you tapped the centre bolt with a hammer once it's loaded?

Yes we have no eggs here
 
What snapped??................ My patients!!!!.............
Cant see the magnets??............ They have been removed to make it rev harder and still allow it to start with the starter.....(you need to maintain a higher Idle,if you do this) Smile
Only pulling on the boss.....!!!!
Have tried heat, cold, heat/cold, cold heat......even had a couple of coldies to calm the nerves..........
I have even tried blasphemy, and praying..........
Don't put anything on the taper!!!!! you don't need to, just fit it dry, no oil, no nothing, this boss has just been locked up harder than it should have, this is why there are torque specs for things!!!!

Anyway just goin to plug away at it

Cheers
Scott

Scotty my mate doing the reno
 
Last edited:
If all else fails... I'd use an angle grinder and cold chisel (please note I'm not saying you should). Carefully cut back a flat the boss until almost to the taper and carefully cut the remaining thin section of the boss with the cold chisel until it is loose enough to remove. I again say carefully and any damage to the crankshaft taper (e.g. chisel nicks) should be small and easy to fix. I have removed a particularly stubborn lower steering stem bearing/race using this method. Did I mention carefully?
 
..Most of the products they sell are available from "MOTORCYCLE SPECIALTIES"(WHOLESALER). You could order them from your local motorcycle shop.
 
Yep, but you can pick them up from their doorstep at west end cheaper and faster than waiting for your local dealer. Fkn useless cunts most bike shops are.
 
Back
Top Bottom